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As you're probably aware there are a number of different types of grazing systems or methods out there. Each of these popular grazing methods has pros and cons and some are better than others at helping producers meet specific operations objectives while maintaining livestock density and supporting soil security. In this article, we'll break down some of the most common and popular types of grazing systems out there and help you understand which grazing method might work best for your needs. Continuous Grazing Continuous grazing provides a single pasture system where livestock have unrestricted, uninterrupted access to a pasture or paddock throughout the entire grazing season. This method provides little or no rest for the land and includes no livestock rotation or managed grazing plan. While continuous grazing reduces the management time and costs in fencing it results in animals selectively grazing on forage they prefer, resulting in uneven distribution of manure. Additionally, this method is harder on the pasture resulting in longer recovery and regrowth times which can lead to low-nutrient forages, erosion, and deterioration of the land. Rotational Grazing The rotational grazing method utilizes a large pasture and divides it into 2 or more smaller paddocks. Livestock are rotated through these paddocks in a planned grazing sequence (rotation), typically every few days (depending on animal health and weather). This method provides time for pasture regrowth and helps to more evenly spread manure and break worm and pest cycles. Once each paddock has been grazed, the sequence starts over again with the paddock that has rested the longest. While this method requires more labor and fencing expenses it helps to increase forage growth, improve livestock health and performance, improve pasture health, reduce supplemental feed, and increase profitability. Temporary fencing is often used to allow for adjustments to paddock sizes between grazing periods based on weather and the health of the pasture. Strip Grazing The strip grazing method involves using portable electric fences to section off small areas of a pasture for animals to graze in for a relatively short amount of time. Animals are often moved as much as once or twice per day. This rapid movement of animals ensures that each area is lightly impacted which supports pasture growth. Typically animals are moved in a single direction with no back fencing to minimize forage waste due to trampling. Because of the frequency of animal movement, this method is somewhat labor intensive. Mob Grazing Mob grazing, also known as ultra-high-density grazing, is a grazing system that involves a large concentration of animals (mob) in a small area for a short amount of time. Similar to strip grazing, animals are moved multiple times per day using temporary fencing. Because of the intense impact of the grazing of a large amount of animals at once, paddocks are only grazed 2 or 3 times per year allowing for long rest periods to support forage growth. Mob grazing forces animals to graze everything available in a paddock rather than selectively grazing for choice forage like in other grazing methods. This grazing method involves significant labor due to the frequency of movements and requires careful grazing rotation planning to ensure paddocks are not over-grazed. Because of the increased labor required this method best works for animals with lower nutritional requirements. Creep Grazing Using the creep grazing method allows for younger animals to have access to the higher quality pastures and forage first by eliminating the competition from older animals. Called the creep method because this system uses a creep gate to allow younger animals access. Because younger animals have access to higher nutrient-rich pastures young calves often see faster gains than nursing alone and the pressure on nursing cows to provide milk is reduced providing for quicker recovery for cows. Leader-Follower Grazing Leader-follower grazing , sometimes called forward grazing or first-last grazing, utilizes two different groups of livestock, each with different nutritional needs grazing on one paddock one after another. This method allows animals with higher nutritional needs (for example, nursing calves) to first selectively graze on more nutritious forages. The next group, with lower nutritional needs, follows to graze the rest of the paddock. This method also works well for grazing two different species. Multi-species Grazing Multi-species grazing systems encourage and support grazing multiple species of animals on the same paddock as a single herd or utilizing the leader-follower method. Because each species has different nutritional needs and forage preferences, this method effectively utilizes available nutrients in the paddock. This method also provides more effective weed control as different species graze in different ways and prefer different plants. While multi-species grazing provides for a diverse operation and well-balanced use of pastures it also requires species-specific equipment and facilities and can be quite labor intensive. Learn more about the benefits of multi-species grazing . Summary As you can see there are many different types of grazing methods. Hopefully, this article provided some insight into the difference between these popular grazing systems. Most studies and producers would agree that some type of rotational grazing offers the largest benefit to pasture health, soil security, forage quality, and animal health and performance. Check out this guide to rotational grazing to learn more. Take a look at how Farmbrite can help you plan and manage your grazing and livestock operation more efficiently.

To Manage Soil Moisture, it must be measured Agriculture is experiencing more volatility than ever. With the increase in water, energy, fuel, and fertilizer costs alongside more extreme effects of climate change like longer droughts and heavy rainfall events, and an increased demand for food, and retailer sustainability goals, growers are under more pressure to work more efficiently with the resources available. In many places in the past, fresh water was readily available and since it was plentiful, we used a little more than necessary. We're beginning to realize that water and other resources should be preserved. The water that we have available should be used as efficiently as possible to optimize yields. Many water management solutions are emerging, from the use of stand-alone watering systems to fully integrated Cloud-based platforms. However, to manage something like the moisture in soil it first needs to be measured. Accurate, real-time soil moisture data is needed to support decision-making and to be fed into automated systems. Besides the raw data, it may even be more important to interpret the numbers delivered from the systems to make the information actionable – and that starts with the soil. A key issue found with traditional monitoring systems is the cost, complexity, high maintenance requirements, and difficulty in integrating one system with another. Smart, wireless IoT sensors are now challenging the status quo, making it much easier - and cheaper -to get an accurate picture of the soil moisture levels in orchards and fields. Calibration is key. Because different soil types behave differently, it’s necessary to calibrate soil moisture data for the specific local context of the soil where the sensors have been placed. There are many sensor providers who offer a standard moisture level, but they don’t account for the local soil conditions, which is a disservice to the user as they won’t be able to get the full picture of the behavior of water within their soil. For example, clay soils with different compositions of organic matter and sand (along with other factors) will have different moisture-holding capacities, and thus their high and low irrigation thresholds should reflect those differences. One size doesn’t fit all when it comes to soil, and that’s why we continually add to our standard calibration library to support all soil types. Sensoterra’s newest generation wireless soil moisture sensors are revolutionizing the way soil moisture data is monitored: The sensors are low-cost, which means that more sensors can be placed for less money. Data can be retrieved with the free Sensoterra app, but the sensors are built to integrate. The open API enables integrations with water management platforms and solutions. The sensors can be installed in <1 minute without the use of additional tools because the sensors are hammerable (patented). The sensors are 100% maintenance-free, with a built-in battery that runs up to 8 years. High accuracy is achieved with an extensive library of standard soil calibrations. Different sensor lengths are available for different applications. Sensoterra sensors are installed in more than 40 countries, saving the owners up to 50% on water and fuel. About Sensoterra Sensoterra provides data-driven solutions for optimizing land and freshwater resources for smart resilient cities, water and drought management, and agriculture/horticulture. The easy-to-install, rugged, and long-lasting soil moisture sensors offer real-time soil moisture readings optimal for data integration. Based in Utrecht, Sensoterra’s aim is to improve water management with integrated soil moisture data. Operating in more than 40 countries, soil moisture sensors generate over 60 million global data points, optimized for integration. Learn more at www.sensoterra.com Author Bio René Voogt Chief Commercial Officer at Sensoterra Bio: René studied geo-informatics and has held senior commercial roles within GIS companies (i.a. ESRI) before. He has more than 5 years of experience in the global IoT sector and previously, René has founded ConnectedGreen, a platform for sensor-based workflow management for landscapers and Smart City.

Some fruit and vegetables benefit from storage in the refrigerator, while others benefit from storage at room temperature. How do you store freshly harvested vegetables for the coming winter? We will dive in and explain a few methods for keeping your vegetables fresh. Fruit and Vegetable Storage Conditions to Think About: The place you keep your vegetables is important. There are key environments for each type of vegetable. It can make or break how long your food will last. Here are some key factors to consider. 1. Light Do you keep them in the absolute dark? Or will they be ok on the counter or in a bright spot? At the end of this article, there are some storage suggestions for the best light for storing different types of vegetables and fruit. 2. Temperature Keeping your vegetables in a temperature-controlled place like the refrigerator, freezer or just a cool place like a root cellar is optimal for many types of vegetables. Freezing vegetables at home is a fast and easy way to preserve nutrients and enjoy the taste of summer vegetables all year long. Note: Freezing is not recommended for artichokes, Belgian endives, eggplant, lettuce greens, potatoes (other than mashed), radishes, sprouts, and sweet potatoes. 3. Curing and preserving fruits and vegetables Not all vegetables can just be put away. Some vegetables need to cure like winter squash, onions, and garlic. These vegetables will be kept for quite a long time if cured and stored in the right environment. Here are some tips on curing your vegetables . You also might consider drying. You can do this by hang-drying your vegetable, flower, or herbs. Or you can dehydrate them. Depending on the plant you will want to research and experiment with how long to dry them. You will want to have good airflow and a dark space. And depending on the plant you may want them to be in a cool or hot environment. We've outlined a few ways to cure your vegetables in the sections below. There's always canning. We could write a whole article about preserving foods by canning. There are so many great recipes out there and the sky's the limit on recipes to try. Every year we try something new. Here is a link to one of our favorites for candied jalapeños, which we call cowboy candy around here. If you're looking for other recipes take a look over at Ball. (We would love to hear about your favorites! Send us an email.) You just have to eat some vegetables right away because they don't store well but here are some recipes to liven up your vegetables . Preserving food has been done for as long as people have been hungry and realize maybe you could make this last. Go old-school by salting, smoking (for meat), or fermenting. Here is an article about using salt while fermenting your vegetables . How to store vegetables Each type of vegetable will have its own requirements. You may have tried to put tomatoes in the refrigerator and then when you wanted to eat them, found they were tasteless. Here are some recommendations on how to store your vegetables. Not all vegetables can be kept for long periods of time. In these situations, it is good to know how to keep them fresh for as long as you can. Here are some tips on keeping these foods that have a shorter shelf life. Storing Root vegetables Root vegetables store very well in many climates if you keep them in the right conditions. Your root vegetables will store the longest if kept at 32-40 degrees F and 95% humidity. You can keep them in sand too. Just don't wash them as that can lead to mildew and rotting. One of the biggest challenge to keeping vegetables through the winter is finding a cool, dark, dry place that doesn’t freeze. In milder climates, Depending on your average temperature during this time, having a root cellar, storage box or unheated garage might be just the place to store your harvest. Just make sure that it is in a place that can't be reached by mice or other pests. Produce that does best in cold, moist storage includes Apples (6-8 weeks, unwashed) Asparagus (3-4 days) Beets (2-3 weeks) Blackberries (2-3 days) Blueberries (5-10 days) Broccoli (3-5 days) Brussels Spouts (3-5 days) Cabbage (1 week) Carrots (3-4 weeks) Cauliflower (1 week) Celery (1-2 weeks or a month or more if you wrap it in tin foil) Citrus fruit: Lemon, lime, orange (3-4 weeks) Eggplant (5-7 days) Grapes (up to 3 weeks) Lettuce (1 week) Mushrooms (4-7 days) Parsnips (3-4 weeks) Peas (3-5 days) Peppers (1-2 weeks) Rutabaga (2-3 weeks) Spinach (3-5 days) Summer squash (4-5 days) Note: A word about leafy green storage: Lettuce, spinach, kale, and more Leafy greens will only store for a short time. They are often susceptible to moisture loss and will wilt quickly. They also stay fresh longer if wrapped and then refrigerated. Wrap them with a towel or paper towel and store them in a sealed airtight bag or container to maintain humidity and freshness. Best in cold, dry storage Garlic ( 2-3 months) Wait until the garlic stalks fall over at the end of the growing season. Pull the bulbs and lay them out in a dry, warm place to cure. Once cured, braid heads of garlic together. Onions (2-3 months) When stalks are ready to fall over in the late summer or fall your onions are ready to harvest. Cure them in a dry, warm spot (about 75-85 degrees F). Trim stalks and store in a cool, dark, dry (50-60 degrees F). Use any onions that still have green at the center of the stalk as they won't keep for long in storage. For longer onion storage choose stronger flavored onions rather than sweet onion varieties. Best in warm, dry conditions Hot peppers (2-3 weeks) Pumpkins (8-12 weeks) Winter squash (8-12 weeks) Sweet potatoes (3-5 weeks) Best if stored in a cool dry place that isn't your refrigerator Tomatoes (7-14 days) Bananas (5-7 days) Potatoes (2-3 months) Storing potatoes After harvest rub off any dirt. Don't wash them as that can add too much moisture. Lay the potatoes out to cure in a cool dry, dark spot. The temperature should be about 50-60 degrees F. Let them stay here for about 2 weeks. This process allows the skin to toughen and helps them keep longer. For long-term storage, place them in a well-ventilated, cool, dark, dry area where the temperature won't go below freezing or above about 60 degrees F. Keep the light out so they don't sprout. Now we've talked about different ways of storing fruits and vegetables. There are going to be times when you just have too much to store or use now. Then there's always canning but we'll save that for another post. We hope this post has given you some new ideas on how to store your fruits and vegetables. This article was written by our farmer and rancher staff at Farmbrite. Like little squirrels, we work every year to preserve the season longer and put up as much as we can. Happy harvest!

What is FCR - Feed Conversion Ratio? FCR stands for Feed Conversion Ratio. FCR is an effective way to measure the productivity of livestock by comparing the input (feed) required to produce an output (meat, eggs, etc). FCR provides farmers with a key performance metric to help evaluate the productivity and potential return on investment of an animal. It also can help a farmer to experiment with different feed types, species, and inputs to determine how they may impact the animal FCR and ultimately its productivity. It's important to note that the calculations for FCR vary depending on the type of livestock and what is being produced. For example: For animals raised for meat - Feed Conversion Rate measures the feed required for the animal to gain 1 pound or kilogram of body weight For dairy animals - FCR looks at the feed required to produce 1 gallon or liter of milk For layer poultry - FCR most often looks at the amount of feed required for your flock to produce 1 dozen eggs. Benefits of Tracking Feed Conversion Ratio Tracking Feed Conversion Ratios for your livestock is an important aspect of understanding the productivity and profitability of your livestock business. Regularly measuring and evaluating your animal's FCR can help you to: Evaluate if an animal is likely a poor producer, which may impact their breeding potential Identify animals that may be in poor health or have other environmental aspects affecting their productivity Determine profitable sales prices that factor in the cost of your inputs to produce your yields Estimate feed needs and cost for livestock (which is often about 70% of your production costs) Test and compare the efficiency and impact of different feeds Better understand the overall profitability of your operation and make informed decisions about animals, grazing patterns, and feed types Increase or decrease supplements Compare your livestock to species or industry production benchmarks to understand how well your animals are performing How to Calculate Feed Conversion Ratio The Feed conversion ratio (FCR) is calculated using the following formula: FCR Formula For animals raised for meat, FCR is calculated as: FCR = Total feed consumed (lbs/kg) / Total animal weight (lbs/kg) Total weight = final weight of animal – starting weight animal during that period. Farmers may evaluate FCR for both live and hang weights of animals to determine different production ratios. For dairy animals, FCR is calculated as: FCR = Total feed consumed (lbs/kg) / Total milk produced (gallons/liters) in that period For layer poultry, FCR is typically calculated as: FCR = Total feed consumed (lbs/kg) / Eggs produced (dozens) in that period FCR can be calculated on a rolling bases, where you evaluate the total amount feed compared to the weight gained in that period (month, year, etc) Factors Influencing FCR Let's take a look at some of the factors that can influence Feed Conversion Ratios results: Animal overall health and well-being Environmental conditions the animal is exposed to (temperature, light, adequate space, water, etc) Quality and nutrition of feed Grazing patterns and forage quality Stage of animal's growth (FCR is very different for a calf than for a nursing cow) Different animal genetics of species variations Feed Conversion Ratios for Different Animals I'm sure it comes as no surprise that different livestock types have different average Feed Conversion Ratios. These averages can also vary by breed. Here's some common livestock animal types and their average FCR: Animal Type Average FCR Cattle 8.0 - 12.0 Goats 4.5 - 5.5 on high quality feed or forage and 30 on straw ration Sheep 4.5 - 5.5 on high quality feed or forage and 30 on straw ration Pig 3.0 - 3.9 Broiler Chickens 1.5 - 2.0 Layer Chickens 330 - 360 eggs/year Rabbits 3.5 - 5.0 How to Improve Feed Conversion Ratio As we talked about previously FCR helps to evaluate the productivity of your animals based on their ability to convert feed into yield. But, before making changes to try and improve an animal's FCR it's important to get an accurate FCR baseline for the animal and compare it to industry and species averages. Depending on the potential cause for an animal's poor FCR score here are a few ideas on how to potentially improve their Feed Conversion Ratio: Ensure the animals have a safe, comfortable environment and housing with proper light, temperature, and space requirements. Monitor and track body condition score s to help determine animal health. Regularly monitor animal health and stay current on vaccinations. Feed livestock the correct diet at the right portions based on the animal's growth stage and other nutritional needs to ensure they can absorb the most nutritional value from their food. Feed Conversion Ratio (FCR) Calculator Summary Hopefully, this article provides you with some additional background and insight into the value of tracking key animal metrics like Feed Conversion Ratios. Understanding your livestock's health and growth is critical to ensuring high-quality products and strong profits. Farmbrite is a complete farm and livestock management system . If you're interested in simplifying the tracking and management of your livestock data, check out Farmbrite to streamline livestock health, growth, feeding, breeding, and other key records - including automating FCR reporting for you.

Knowing when to vaccinate your calves is an important part of cattle management. Calves can develop many diseases, but the best way to prevent them is to vaccinate them. There are certain ages at which some vaccinations are more important than others, and these vary depending on whether you’re raising dairy or beef calves. Below is a guide to calf vaccinations so you know when it is recommended to administer certain vaccines, and how these vaccines help to keep your new farm additions healthy and strong. Why should calves be vaccinated? Young calves are susceptible to many infectious diseases, including viruses, bacteria, and parasites. Vaccines protect against these common illnesses by stimulating the immune system so that it can recognize and fight off disease. When you vaccinate your calf, you’re providing him with long-term protection against many important diseases. You can also help protect other cattle on your farm or ranch by vaccinating your calves and taking other steps to keep them healthy. Vaccination is a preventative measure that can help you avoid losses, but it's also used as a diagnostic tool when disease outbreaks occur. When your vet administers a vaccination , they’ll often take an oral swab from the calf's mouth to test for infection. This helps determine which vaccine is needed. Vaccines can be administered at any time of year, but it's most common for farmers to vaccinate their livestock during the fall and winter months. This is when diseases like BVD and PI3 are most prevalent. If you're raising your calves on pasture or indoors—or if you have recently purchased new cattle—there are some critical times when vaccination should be done in order to protect them from disease and increase their chance of survival into adulthood: Birth to six weeks of age The timeframe in which you should give your calf its first vaccine depends on whether it is a dairy or beef calf. Dairy calves receive more vaccinations earlier in life, while beef cattle usually don’t receive shots until at least four weeks of age. In both cases, these vaccines prevent disease by making the animal produce antibodies against bacteria or viruses that can cause disease. Here is a guide to the first vaccines that each type of calf should receive during their first few weeks of life: Dairy Calves Vaccines for Dairy Calves in their First Week: • Intranasal IBR/PI3 Vaccines for Dairy Calves, Five Weeks of Age: • IBR • PI3 • BVD • BRSV-MLV Beef Calves Vaccines for Beef Calves 4-5 weeks prior to weaning: • IBR • BVD • BRSV • PI3 • Pasteurella The first vaccine given to calves is usually a combination vaccine containing an effective dose of all the major respiratory diseases: • Bovine viral diarrhea (BVD) virus — a respiratory infection that causes coughing, fever and runny nose • Infectious bovine rhinotracheitis (IBR) viruses — also known as "shipping fever" because it's transmitted by flies • Parainfluenza Virus 3 (PI3) — an upper respiratory disease that causes nasal discharge, difficulty breathing, and fever • Bovine Respiratory Syncytial Virus (BRSV) — a stress-related disease that weakens the immune system and causes respiratory symptoms It's important to vaccinate your calf on schedule. Skipping a dose can leave the calf vulnerable to disease and may require another series of shots. Work with your veterinarian to ensure that your calf is getting the proper vaccinations during the proper timeframes. Vaccines to give at weaning: Most infectious diseases are spread from cow to calf, so it’s important to vaccinate cows before calving. Giving vaccines at this time also protects calves from diseases that may be more common in the environment (such as leptospirosis) and offers protection for the cow during her lactation. If you sell your calves after they are weaned, it is important that they be vaccinated against clostridial diseases and tetanus prior to sale. These vaccinations should be given at least four weeks before market; however, they can also be administered up to six months after birth if necessary. If you intend on keeping your calf on farm for another year or two before sending them off somewhere else, then it's best that he receives his vaccination series at a young age. This allows him to develop immunity against all major diseases by the time he goes out into the world. To be on the safe side, it is recommended to vaccinate calves at least three months before they are going anywhere off of your property. This will ensure that they develop immunity against all major diseases and are protected from any infectious agents in your environment. Here are some common vaccines given to calves at weaning: Dairy Calves Vaccines for dairy calves at two months (Boosters): • IBR • PI3 • BDV • BRSV-MLV Vaccines for Dairy Calves at three Months: • 7-way Clostridium with Haemophilus • Pinkeye Beef Calves • IBR • BVD • BRSV • PI3 • 7-way blackleg booster • 5-way leptospirosis Four to six months of age While your calf may not appear sick, it is important to vaccinate them at four to six months of age. These vaccines are usually administered by a veterinarian. Here are some vaccines commonly administered to calves at four to six months: Beef Calves • 7-way blackleg • IBR • BVD • BRSV • Bangs vaccine (heifer calves only) • PI3 Dairy Calves • IBR • PI3 • BVD-MLV • Pasturella toxoid • Bangs vaccine • 7-way Clostridium with Haemophilus When arriving on a new farm If you're bringing in a newborn calf that has no prior vaccine records, it's best to vaccinate as soon as possible. Newborn calves are especially vulnerable to disease, as their immune system has not yet had the chance to fully develop. The sooner vaccination can be given after birth, the better chance your calf has at protecting itself from common diseases like BVD and PI3. A veterinarian can administer these vaccines during the weaning period (about three weeks after birth) or before weaning (anywhere from two months old). As the calf ages As a calf ages, he will require more types of vaccines. Vaccines are given for several reasons. They can be used to prevent diseases in calves, boost their immune systems, and prevent disease outbreaks. Vaccines can also be used to prevent disease transmission from other animals on the farm or from wild animals that may carry disease. The vaccination schedule for each animal is determined by the farm veterinarian based on its age and risk factors for disease exposure (such as proximity to wildlife). The most common vaccines given to cattle include: • Brucellosis vaccine – This is a bacterial disease that can cause abortions in pregnant cows. It is also transmissible to humans, leading to flu-like symptoms and arthritis. • Bovine viral diarrhea (BVD) vaccine – BVD causes respiratory disease and death in young calves. It can also be spread from animal to animal through contact with infected feces. • Coccidiosis vaccine – This bacterial infection can lead to diarrhea, weight loss and death in young calves. It is often a problem on large dairy farms where cattle are kept indoors for long periods of time. • Contagious bovine pleuropneumonia (CBPP) vaccine – This bacterial disease causes respiratory disease in young calves and can be spread through contact with contaminated fluids or by wild birds. At thirteen to sixteen months, dairy cattle should receive these vaccines: • IBR • PI3 • BVD • BRSV-MLV • 5-way Leptospirosis Keeping track of your herd's vaccinations is vital. Take a look at Farmbrite to help you keep track of important dates like booster, withdrawal, and weening dates. Conclusion It is important to remember that not all calves will need all the vaccines mentioned in this article. The type of calf, his environment, and where he came from all play a role in determining which vaccines he needs. If you have any questions about when your calf should be vaccinated and which vaccines should be administered, talk with a veterinarian who has experience working with cattle. Sources: https://hcvconline.com/about-our-clinic/recommended-vaccinations-for-large-animals/ https://pubs.nmsu.edu/_b/B223/index.html https://www.vetfolio.com/learn/article/vaccination-programs-for-calves https://extension.umn.edu/beef-cow-calf/cattle-vaccine-basics#the-core-vaccinations-for-cattle-2068563

When you're a farmer raising sheep, goats, chickens or other livestock, you need to be on guard for predators. Luckily, there are several dog breeds that can help you keep your animals safe from intruders. In this article, we’ll introduce you to the 8 best livestock guardian dogs and show you how to choose the best one for yourself! How to Choose the Best Livestock Guardian Dog 1. Determine your guardian dog do needs Examine the key needs and motivations for considering a livestock guardian dog. For example: What type of animals do you have on your farm? Are they free-range or kept indoors? How much space do you need your livestock guardian dog to cover? Can they protect the range area for your livestock? These are all important questions to ask when looking for a livestock guardian dog. Figuring out what your needs are will help you to look for a dog breed that matches those needs. For example, you may need more than one guardian dog if you have multiple pastures of animals. 2. Preparing for your guardian dog Another important thing to consider is where your livestock guardian dog will be living, and how you will care for them on a day-to-day basis. Guardian dogs are different from house dogs because they often live outside or in a barn. Who will take care of the dog? When, where, and what type of dog food will it be fed? Where will it be housed? How will they be trained? Do you have sufficient fencing to keep them safe? These are some more vital questions to ask yourself before looking for a specific livestock guardian dog. 3. Learn about different guardian dog breeds Once you know what your needs and your dog’s needs are, the next step to choosing the best livestock guardian dog is to learn about the dog breeds available. Keep reading for our guide to the top 8 livestock guardian breeds below! 4. Find a reputable breeder or source for your new guardian dog After learning about each breed and selecting the right one for you, it’s time to look at individual dogs. Learning about each dog or puppy is important during your search for the ideal guardian dog. This especially applies to dogs that are being re-homed or adopted. Find out what the history of each dog is, if possible. If they have any previous training, that would be great to know, too. If you choose to get a puppy, it’s a great idea to learn about dog trainers in the area. If you’re looking at fully-grown dogs, see how well-behaved the dog is when interacting with humans and other animals in general; if there are any issues with aggression or dominance, they should be noted here as well. See how trained the dog is overall by taking note of how much work you'll need to invest into training them before they can become a reliable protector for whatever livestock you want to be protected (i.e. cows). If the dog has been trained in any capacity, that is a huge plus for you. The more training it has, the better off you'll be because this means that the dog will know how to react when something goes wrong. 5. I ntroduce the dog to your livestock If possible, you’ll want to make sure that this dog is a good fit for your livestock by trying to get them involved in their lives as much as possible. If they have been trained well enough, then they may be able to protect your animals without you having to be there at all times—which means that they will be able to take care of themselves when left alone. If the dog is not trained at all, then you'll have to be around to train it, or you’ll have to invest in a dog trainer who works with livestock guardian dogs. The Top 8 Livestock Guardian Dog Breeds As we mentioned above, an important step in finding the right livestock guardian dog for your farm is to learn about the different dog breeds available. Here are eight of the best livestock guardian dog breeds: 1. Anatolian Shepherds The Anatolian Shepherd is an extremely intelligent, loyal and protective breed. They are great with children and other pets, as well as strangers. They are also very good around livestock. Anatolians have minimal shedding and odor, so you don't have to worry about them making a mess of your house! They do not bark much at all, which makes them suitable if you have neighbors living close by. If you want a dog who will be alert but not noisy, this could be the right puppy for you. They tend to be naturally independent so they're less likely to require excessive attention from their owner - perfect if you're busy with work on the farm or other responsibilities all day long! 2. Great Pyrenees The Great Pyrenees is a large dog that originates from the high country of France and Spain. They're known for their shaggy white coats, fluffy tails, and regal demeanor. They're also famous for being excellent livestock guardians; they've been used to protect sheep since at least 1200 CE. The most important thing to know about this breed is that it's prone to hip dysplasia (HD) — especially if the parents have HD or were bred from dogs with HD in their genes. If you want a healthy puppy, look for a breeder who screens his breeding dogs' hips before breeding them. 3. Komondor Komondors are large, muscular dogs with a thick, white coat. They do not bark or howl like other guardian breeds and will not alert you if there is danger outside. Instead, they will aggressively protect your property by chasing away intruders or deterring them with sheer size alone. Komondors are good with children and other pets, but they need lots of exercise to keep up with their energy levels. They make wonderful family pets and livestock guardian dogs as long as you have an active lifestyle that includes plenty of playtime and walks outdoors on a daily basis. 4. Neva Masquerade The Neva Masquerade is a large breed of dog that was bred in Russia to protect livestock from bears and wolves. It is also known as the Russian Bear Dog, which makes sense considering its purpose in life. A Neva Masquerade has excellent guarding instincts and is very territorial. This breed can take on any threat with confidence, making it an excellent choice for protecting your farm animals when you’re away at work all day. 5. Maremma Sheepdog The Maremma Sheepdog is a large dog with a muscular body and thick white coat. It's known for being sweet and playful, but it's also a very protective breed that won't hesitate to attack if it perceives danger. This makes it an ideal option for anyone who needs to protect livestock or other animals from predators like foxes or coyotes. The Maremma Sheepdog is known as one of the best guardian dogs because of its devotion to its family and livestock. Although they are naturally suspicious of strangers and will bark at strangers who come near their home, they quickly warm up once the visitor has been introduced properly by their owner. They make good watchdogs because they're always alerting their owner when something unusual happens around the house by barking loudly enough so they can be heard even over long distances (upwards of two miles). 6. Kuvasz The Kuvasz is a large, strong dog that's protective of its family and loyal to them. It has been known to become emotionally attached to its home and owners, so if you're looking for an independent livestock guardian dog, this isn't the breed for you. The Kuvasz is good with children and other dogs—so long as they don't challenge his position as leader! The Kuvasz will not tolerate overly aggressive behavior from other animals in his home. 7. Tosa Inu Tosa Inu are large, powerful dogs. They can weigh up to 130 pounds and stand between 25 and 30 inches at the withers (the highest point of the dog). This is a significant size difference from many other guardian breeds, which often tops out at around 100 pounds. As you may expect from such a large dog, they don't need as much exercise as smaller guardians do; a daily walk will be sufficient for most Tosa owners. The Tosa's size makes them appealing to owners who want an intimidating presence in their home without sacrificing cuteness. These dogs have an exceptionally high prey drive—they love playing with toys but also enjoy chasing squirrels through the yard or bringing down wild boar in the forest! Because of this strong instinctual desire for action, it is important that you provide plenty of opportunities for your Tosa to run off-leash or play fetch on your property so that he doesn't get bored or frustrated inside the house all day long. If kept outside with livestock, though, their energy has an outlet and these large dogs should do just fine. Unlike some other guardian breeds (like Mastiffs), these guys are not known for being aggressive towards strangers. 8. Tibetan Mastiff The Tibetan Mastiff, which can weigh as much as 160 pounds, is a large dog with a short coat. The tail is long and the muzzle is short. The head and ears are large. This livestock guardian breed requires moderate exercise and does well in colder climates because of its thick coat, but it’s also great for warmer climates because it has low energy requirements. The Tibetan Mastiff makes a great guard dog for your home, farm or ranch because it's very territorial about its surroundings and will protect you from intruders without being aggressive toward family members or other animals in the area when not on duty. Conclusion We hope that this article has helped you learn more about the top 8 livestock guardian dog breeds and how to choose the best dog for you. Although we’ve covered some of the most common Livestock Guardian Dogs, but there are many more breeds out there. Be sure to do your own research on your journey to finding the best livestock guardian dog for your farm! Sources: https://www.k9ofmine.com/best-livestock-guardian-dogs/ https://homeinthefingerlakes.com/livestock-guardian-dogs-for-chickens/ If you would are looking for an easy way to track your livestock take a look at Farmbrite . You can track multiple species within the same application. Take it for a trial run for free for 14 days. Courtney Garrett is a freelance writer and editor traveling the world as a digital nomad. She earned her Bachelor of Animal Science with a specialization in Livestock Science and Management in 2019, and has worked with dairy cattle, sheep, goats, dogs, chickens, and more over the past 10 years. When not writing, she enjoys horseback riding, swimming, and taking walks with her Havanese puppy, Ella.

Livestock ear tags and tattoos play an integral role in animal identification and disease traceability. These two animal identification methods are widely used in communal and commercial farms across the globe. Other methods of livestock identification include branding, ear notching, painting, and the use of microchips. So, which is better? Livestock ear tags or tattoos? In this article, we’ll examine the pros and cons of livestock ear tagging and tattooing as essential farm management practices. We’ll also detail the steps to follow when tagging or tattooing your livestock. Let’s start with the basics. What is an Ear Tag? An ear tag, also known as an animal identification tag is a small piece of metallic or plastic ear attachment meant for identification purposes. The tag bears the animal identification number, letter, or alphanumerical. The animal identification ID number is usually used to indicate sex, sire, problem, date of birth, and other crucial information about the livestock. Tags are fixed onto the livestock ears using a special pair of pliers also referred to as an applicator. You can buy ear tags and their applicators from farm equipment dealers or online marketplaces. Federal and state ear tags are supplied and regulated by the U.S. Department of Agriculture through the Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service , APHIS. Types of Animal Ear Tags Ear tags differ depending on shape (button-shaped or flag-shaped), size, color (yellow, blue, red), and material (plastic or metallic). Currently, ear tags are classified as electronic or non-electronic. In a move to enhance animal disease traceability, the U.S. Department of Agriculture is engaging the public to approve Radio Frequency Identification RFID ear tags to be the only legitimate form of cattle identification for interstate movement. How to Tag Your Livestock The process of applying ear tags to livestock is quick and simple and you can do it yourself. Indeed, you can follow the manufacturer’s directions and apply the tag appropriately. That said, you should ensure that you choose the appropriate tags for the animal. In addition, ensure that you abide by the county, state, and national animal identification guidelines, especially if the livestock will be moved across states. Below are the steps you should follow when tagging your animals. Assemble the tools Have in place the instruments needed for applying ear tags. These include ear tags, an applicator, disinfectant, and gloves. Also, ensure the tag have information that you want to capture including sire, sex, date of birth, and so forth. Catch and restrain the animal You should restrain the animal to avoid getting injured or applying the tag wrongly. Small livestock such as calves, goats, and sheep can be held and tagged by a single person. Be careful with newborn calves because their mothers are overprotective and might gore you. Perhaps, you can use a calf cage to tag newborn calves without getting gored. For bigger animals, use a halter, nose lead, or head gate to restrict head movement. Determine where to apply the tag Tags shouldn’t be applied too far inside the ear. This site has thicker tissue and might hold the tag tightly resulting in infections such as necrosis. Similarly, tags placed on the extreme exterior part of the ear are likely to be ripped out or snagged. The appropriate location should be between the ribs in the middle one-third of the ear. Disinfect Always disinfect the applicator and site for the tag by wiping it with 70% alcohol or any other disinfectant before starting to apply the ear tag. This way, you will prevent germs from getting into the pierced site. Tag application Once you have everything set, it is now time to apply the tag. Note that if you apply the tag correctly, you will avoid issues such as ear infections or the tag falling off. Moreover, a rightly placed tag eases livestock identification. To apply the tag correctly, ensure the parts of the ear tag and applicator are intact and function as required. An ear tag has two parts; the male and female portion. The male part of the ear tag, also known as the stud is the visual panel while the female part is the button. On the other hand, the jaws of the applicator should be correctly aligned to give the best results. And so, you should clamp them to ascertain whether they are aligned properly. With the applicator over the tagging area, place the male portion on the back and the female portion on the front part of the ear. Position everything correctly then press firmly and release the applicator to tag the animal. A sharp sound (clink) will be produced as the two portions of the ear tag join. Now remove the applicator and confirm that the two portions of the tag are interlocked. Watch the tags After applying the tags, you should keep an eye on the ears of marked animals to identify, prevent or treat problems such as swelling, pain, discharge, or tissue death. Please consider removing the tag to treat the wound if the swelling, discharge, or pain persists. How to Maintain the Ear Tag Applicator? The applicator should be properly cleaned before and after use. It should also be sanitized using an antiseptic or a disinfectant. Keep in mind that sharing ear tag applicators among a group of livestock can easily spread bacterial, fungal, and viral diseases. Pros and Cons of Livestock Ear Tags Pros Ear tags provide an effective way of identifying the livestock. Non-electronic tags are easily visible by the naked eye while electronic tags IED or RFID store critical information about the livestock. RFID provides automated reporting on animal movement which aids in animal disease traceability. The process of applying ear tags is quick and simple. Farmers can do it for themselves. Simple non-electric tags are affordable and might not require trained personnel to apply. Some cost as little as $10. If fixed properly, ear tags can last long enough till the livestock is sold. Ear tags are available for most livestock including cattle, sheep, goats, and pigs Blank ear tags are available for the farmer to write whatever they wish. You can acquire a wide variety of ear tag sizes and colors Cons Wrongly applied ear tags can result in tissue problems, infections, or severe pain. Tags are considered a semi-permanent identification method because they can break or can come out accidentally or by intention. Metallic ear tags are associated with infections in dairy cattle and goats. The applicator must match the brand of tags. Some jurisdictions require that ear tags to purchased annually. Important information about ear tag color The blue color is used by the USDA (at least for the identification of sheep and goats). So, don’t use it. Certain ear tag colors are easier to read and identify than others. Usually, lighter tag colors such as pink, orange, yellow, etc. are easier to read on the animal than dull colors You do not need to change the color of your ear tags; you can use the same color for ages and all animals in your flock. What Is a Livestock Tattoo? Livestock tattooing is the practice of placing permanent marks on the skin of farm animals primarily for identification. A pair of livestock tattoo pliers is used to embed numbers or letter marks on the animal’s skin. A tattoo ink is then applied before puncturing marks. This ink remains visible even after the wound heals. Ear tattooing is regarded as an easy and reliable permanent identification method. According to CALS , tattooing is the favorite permanent identification technique for goat breed associations. Requirements for Livestock Tattooing You will need tattoo pliers and ink, disinfectant, numbers, or letters (used to pierce the skin and leave the needed mark). You might require gloves and a halter as well. Steps to Tattoo Livestock 1. Restrain the animal Restrain the animal. Smaller animals such as kids and calves are held by hand but the large ones need to be restrained using a halter. 2. Identify the site for tattoo Locate an appropriate site for the tattoo. If tattooing the ear, ensure you avoid piercing the veins. For goat breeds with small ears, you can consider tattooing the tail web. 3. Clean Disinfect the site for the tattoo using a clean cloth or cotton wool dipped in rubbing alcohol. Ensure you clean all the wax to get the desired results. 4. Applying tattoo ink Apply ink generously on the site for the tattoo. You should ink an area larger than the tattoo pliers. Also, stick to the part of the ear without too much hair. 5. Place the tattoo Confirm the that animal is restrained and place the tattoo plier in the right position. Avoid piercing the veins as this will lead to bleeding and result in a low-quality tattoo. Then clamp the pliers to puncture the ear. Unclamp, lift, and remove the pliers. 6. Apply more ink Check the piercings and apply more ink into holes to get a visible and long-lasting tattoo. 7. Clean and disinfect the tools After you’re done, clean and disinfect the tattoo pliers for the next use. This way, you will minimize the chances of infecting the next batch of animals. Pros and Cons of Tattoos Pros Tattoos are permanent identification marks that last a lifetime, a reason why it is used by most livestock registries. They are quick, simple, and reliable when compared to other permanent identification techniques such as branding. Tattoos can be used singly or together with other identification methods. Tattoos are appropriate for all livestock. Tattoo application tools can be used for a lifetime Cons Tattoos are unobtrusive and might not be easily visible. Tattoos work well with some specific animal colors Infection may if the tools are not properly cleaned Similarities Between Ear Tags and Tattoos Both are animal identification techniques The tools and the procedure used to apply ear tags and tattoos are almost similar. Both are quick and simple methods of animal identification. In most cases, tags and tattoos are applied on the ear of the animal. Both techniques are approved by the US Department of Agriculture and Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service Both methods involve piercing the skin. Well done tag and tattoos are easy to read Differences Between Ear Tags and Tattoos Ear tags Tags are conspicuous, easily visible, and readable Tags are semi-permanent animal identification method Are metallic or plastic object containing the identification number is attached to the ear of the livestock Identification Tags are conspicuous, easily visible, and readable Metallic ear tags have been associated with infection, especially in dairy cattle Ink is not used during the tagging process Tags: can accommodate over 15 numbers or letters and are good for keeping records In case of a mistake, you can choose a different location and allow the mistakenly done site to heal. Not suitable for some kinds of livestock such as horses, donkeys, dogs, cats, etc Tattoos Tattoos are a permanent livestock identification method Numbers or letters are punctured on the skin of the livestock Tattoos are inconspicuous and you have to hold the animal to read the marks Tattoo ink is inactive and has no documented effect on the animal Not suitable for some kinds of livestock such as horses, donkeys, dogs, cats, etc. Appropriate for many kinds of livestock Ink is used for tattooing Tattoos may not exceed 7 numbers or letters per ear thus used for registration purposes Mistakes leave a permanent mark on the skin of the livestock. Livestock Ear Tags Vs Tattoos: Which one should you choose? When choosing an animal identification method, you should consider the need you plan to solve. As mentioned above, ear tags are appropriate for keeping personal records. This is because they can fit over fifteen numbers or letters which can capture details about sex, sire, date of birth, and more. On the other hand, tattoos are preferred by livestock registries due to their durability. Note that ear tags might not be appropriate for some animals. That said, ear tags and tattoos are both quick, simple, and reliable animal identification methods. Each of these methods has it pros and con as listed above. Your choice between the two solely lies in what you intend to achieve. Want to keep track of your animals? Take a look at Farmbrite for your Livestock record keeping. You can store tag numbers, EID , or tattoo numbers in Farmbrite to help you keep track of your animals. Try today for free.

Drones seem to be everywhere today. These unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs) are basically remotely controlled (by a human operator) or fully autonomous flying platforms that can be adapted for various applications. Drones are typically self-stabilizing and rotor-driven, with multiple rotors (4-8), and can navigate via pre-programmed routes or by using artificial intelligence (AI) technology to track objects or follow dynamic flight paths. Originally developed for military applications, drones are now everywhere and they are finding more and more commercial, industrial and agricultural applications. According to a 2019 report, the agricultural drone market alone is expected to grow to over $4.8 billion USD by 2024 . This growth is primarily driven by pressures on global food supply due to the growing world population and new venture capitalist (VC) funding and investments in autonomous farming technologies, including agriculture drones. While many farmers may not be at a size, scale or level of complexity to be ready to consider adding flying robotic helpers, it's worth understanding how this technology is being applied today and how you might think about its potential on your farm. Read more about some of the many uses for drones in agriculture . Applications of agriculture drones With the increased movement of operations to more precision farming practices, especially for large-scale operations, drones are seeing a steady increase in adoption for agricultural uses . In many areas, drone use has become an essential part of large-scale precision farming operations already. Data from drones used in precision farming operations is helping farmers to monitor crop health, optimize treatments and irrigation, and improve yields - all of which help farmers to improve their bottom line. Keep reading to learn about some of the innovative ways that drones are being used in agriculture. Maybe it'll spark an idea that you can try on your farm. Scouting Crop Health Monitoring Farmers perform routine and regular scouting of crops to detect issues or threats such as pests, disease, poor growth rates, nutrient or water deficiencies, and more. Typically this crop monitoring is performed by walking or driving through a planted field performing visual inspections and taking soil samples from various locations. With the help of agricultural drone technologies farmers can now perform more comprehensive and efficient monitoring of plant health with less effort. Drones can be equipped with special agriculture-specific imaging technology to create and analyze a vegetation indices map. This Normalized Difference Vegetation Index (NDVI) technology enables farmers to quickly scan a large area of planted crops. The system will generate and analyze a Near Infra-Red image map to help farmers identify healthy and unhealthy plants, allowing farmers to quickly identify and respond to specific problem areas before issues affect the whole crop. Many farmers are familiar with using satellite imagery to monitor crop performance and identify potential issues, the use of drones with normal optical cameras allows farmers to get a closer, more real-time picture of what is happening with their crops. The option to get higher resolution images and data even when there is cloud cover provides farmers with the ability to respond more quickly should issues be identified. Monitoring Field and Pasture Conditions with Drones Another area where agriculture drones have started to make an impact on crop and livestock yields is through monitoring of field and pasture conditions. Whether you're growing crops or grazing livestock the conditions of your field or paddock are critical to the health of your plants and animals and to your resulting yields. By leveraging drones, farmers and ranchers are able to keep an eye on overall soil health and conditions without needing to do regular 'boots on the ground' scouting and soil sampling. Agricultural drones can help to identify drainage patterns, look for overly wet or dry spots, help identify grazing rotation timing, and can also monitor nitrogen levels to support the precision application of fertilizers. Agriculture Drone for Spray Applications In South Korea, drones are performing as much as 30% of agriculture spraying applications. While this use of agricultural drones has not been as widely adopted outside of Southeast Asia, drone sprayers offer an innovative solution for farmers to access hard-to-reach places, perform more surgical spraying applications of pesticides, reduce costs, and reduce the health risks to workers who are currently using backpack sprayers. While this technology is promising many countries do not currently allow the widespread use of drone-based sprayers for agriculture usage. There are many safety and regulatory issues that might need to be addressed before we see widespread applications of agriculture drones for pesticide application. Farm and Ranch Security Farms and ranches often cover large areas and are located in hard-to-reach places. This can make the monitoring of the physical security of the property a real challenge. Many commercial and manufacturing organizations with large acreages have been turning to drones to help monitor and secure their property . Drones provide a nimble and cost-effective solution to allow farmers and ranchers to keep an eye on corners of their property including fences, warehouses, silos, livestock paddocks, and more without having to perform tedious manual patrols. Using drones a farmer can quickly check on hard-to-reach corners of their property or send a drone to take a look at a potential issue before sending people to respond to a potentially hazardous situation. Drones for Livestock Management Livestock grazing and ranching operations typically cover large and remote areas and can present challenges to manage. By using drones, ranchers can more effectively monitor and manage their animals taking less time and using fewer resources. Some of the recent applications of drones for livestock management include herd tracking and monitoring, health checks, livestock fence checks, and even the herding of animals using drone technology. By using drones cattle and sheep farmers are able to check on distance herds, evaluate water sources and paddock health, and determine the ideal time for grazing movements. Ranchers are also experimenting with using drones as remote shepherds to push cattle herds or sheep flocks to other grazing locations or to help guide a lost animal back to the herd. Additionally, livestock drone applications can help ranchers monitor herd health by performing remote cattle or sheep counting , assessing overall livestock herd health , performing visual animal inspections, and even checking animal weights. Crop Pollinating with Drones Bees are hard to beat as pollinators, but with risks posed by the steady decline of these vital pollinators, farmers are looking for alternative solutions to pollinate their crops. A number of startups have sprung up and are testing drone-based crop pollination. While drones are able to collect large amounts of pollen and move quickly through fields of crops delivering the pollen we are a long way off from finding a technology-based replacement for the honey bee. Planting & Seeding with Drones One last innovative use of drones for agriculture that we found in our research was using drones for seeding and planting. A key area that is leveraging this technology is to combat deforestation and increase biodiversity, especially in areas that have been devastated by wildfires. A few startups, including AirSeed out of Australia and DroneSeed in Washington state, have been pioneering drone technology to strategically plant tree seeds by drone. The drones use proprietary seed pods and artificial intelligence (AI) to plant up to 40,000 trees per day . Flying ATV Imagine cruising over your row crops or paddocks at 400ft to inspect your crops or wrangle a stray calf that's wandered off. Startup Ryse Aerotech has created the solution for you. While more of a personal aircraft than a drone, their new Recon ultralight is capable of carrying a single passenger up to a 400ft elevation and traveling at speeds of 50 knots. Now you can leave your ATV in the garage and fly over to the other side of the ranch. Unfortunately, the current technology only offers a 25-minute flight time, so you might need a ride back, but either way, this technology provides a glimpse into some of the emerging drone technology. Learn more at Ryse Areotech . Summary Drones have already started to impact and change the farming industry and are likely to continue to do so for years to come. While drones may not be the right tool for all farmers, they do offer innovative ideas for ways that technology can help farmers and ranchers be more productive, increase crop yields, reduce crop and livestock losses, reduce pesticide applications, and improve margins. If you're interested in learning more about incorporating drones into your operation we would suggest starting small and slowly to understand the potential benefits before making larger investments. If using technology on your farm interests you, take a look at Farmbrite for your farm management . You can store images and files within your account and lots of other types of data. Give us a try for free .

While many people start the new year off with a list of personal resolutions or goals, like losing weight, drinking less, or getting in shape, why not start your new year off by getting your farm organized and optimized? Keep reading for tips on how to get organized around the farm, be more productive and efficient, save time and money, increase profits, and best of all reduce operational stresses. 1) Organize your records One of the best ways to reduce stress is to get organized. Start by collecting all your farm records and getting them into an organization system. This could be as simple as a series of binders or a spreadsheet. Consider digitizing your farm records to simplify searching for and reporting on data and to prevent losing important records in the future. 2) Write down & track tasks There is never a shortage of things to do around the farm. Organize your farm work by writing down your daily, weekly, and seasonal tasks and getting them into a schedule, or a task list, not only helps to make sure the work gets done but also gets those chores out of your head so you can think about other things. 3) Understand your financials Money is one of the leading causes of stress for people. Getting a good handle on your farm finances not only helps to reduce anxiety about farm margins and profits. It can also help to identify areas of your business that you might want to do less because they are less profitable and also identify places to invest. 4) Get your taxes out of the way Taxes are a necessary part of running any business. Avoid tax day anxiety by prioritizing getting your tax documents organized and your filing done as early as possible. Getting them out of the way will reduce stress later. To make farm taxes easier next year, make sure your farm financial records are up to date, online, and categorized. 5) Plan your season Whether you're growing fruits and vegetables for the market, raising cattle for beef, breeding sheep, or keeping bees, having a detailed plan for your farm will keep things running smoothly all season long. Find a farm management system that works for you to help you plan your plantings, breedings, treatments, harvests, and market dates. 6) Organize your work & team Sometimes it feels like there's too much to do around the farm and never enough time or people to get it all done. To help, try getting your whole team aligned and organized around farm work by setting goals, breaking work into manageable tasks, assigning work out to the team, and getting the tasks on a schedule that everyone can see and update. 7) Organize supplies & inventory Nothing is more frustrating than not having the supplies or equipment you need to do a job. Start your season off right by taking stock of what you have on hand. Order seeds and supplies early to make sure you have everything you need. Keeping an accurate and ongoing record of your farm inventory can help alert you to re-order before you find yourself in a pinch. 8) Streamline farm orders Whether you sell direct to consumers, wholesale, or to grain silos you're going to want an easy way to capture orders, collect payments, and manage inventory, fulfillment, and deliveries. Consider an online order management system to keep all your orders in one place and integrated through the whole lifecycle. 9) Leverage digital tools Pen & paper and spreadsheets are great, but if you really want to simplify and streamline things around the farm consider using a farm management software system . It can save you hundreds of hours of work a year, help improve your business, keep your records safe, and best of all let you breathe a little easier. 😄 Happy Farming! Farmbrite is an all-in-one farming and livestock software system that's purpose-built for multi-species and biodiverse farms & ranches and includes everything you need to plan, manage, report, track, and sell - all from one simple-to-use place. If you're serious about getting your farm organized, optimized, and running smoothly see how farm software can help .

Getting Started With Microgreens on Your Farm Microgreens are popular in home gardening, farming, and for chefs worldwide. People have been drawn to them for beauty, flavor, health benefits, and commercial purposes. Also, they are quick food crops and ideal if you have limited space. With so many advantages they are definitely a crop to take a look second look at for your farm. With the advantages, there are however some things you should know before getting started growing microgreens. They do require some knowledge and growing skills. We're going to cover some of the basic tools that you need to make growing microgreens less daunting. This guide covers all the essential details you need to get started with microgreens on your farm. What are microgreens? Microgreens are young seedlings of edible plants such as vegetables or herbs. You can harvest them after the cotyledon leaves have developed with one set of true leaves. You can use them as nutrition supplements, flavor, and texture enhancement to other foods. They add sweetness and spiciness to your food, and you can also use them as garnish. Don't confuse microgreens with sprouts. Sprouts germinate in water for one or two days to produce underdeveloped leaves. Microgreens grow in soil and take fewer days to produce leaves than sprouts. Benefits of Microgreens Nutritional benefits One of the essential benefits of Microgreens is they contain valuable vitamins and nutrients. They are more nutritious than their mature counterparts. The high nutrient density is due to microgreens being harvested after germination when all nutrients for plant growth are still present. Also, microgreens are grown in a safer environment and don't have food-borne illness risks. Microgreens are packed with flavor Microgreens are a delicious and colorful addition to many dishes. You can use them to add flavor to your food and complement salads, smoothies, and more. Quick and easy to grow It's quick and easy to grow microgreens on your farm. You'll require a few supplies depending on the type of microgreen you'd like to grow. Depending on the variety they are quick crop to grow. You can harvest most varieties of microgreens within 10 to 28 days of sowing the seed. Microgreen growing is space-efficient Growing microgreens allows you to utilize just a small space. You can utilize a limited piece of land (or other area) and get a high yield and do this over and over. You can also use racks to maximize vertical space. Make sure there is sufficient water, light, and air circulation for them to thrive. They have many health benefits: Microgreens are nutrient-dense because they contain most of the energy the plant has stored in the seed. By harvesting them early the energy is still there and is able to be consumed. That is why there are so many health benefits to eating microgreens that you can pass on to your customers. Here are just a few health benefits of microgreens: Microgreens have been shown to contain anti-inflammatory properties that activate proteins that serve as a defense mechanism against oxidative stress. This means that supports cardiovascular health since oxidative stress is one of the leading causes of cardiac diseases. Consumption of microgreens is associated with reduced risk of many cancers like colorectal, ovarian, pancreatic, lung, and breast cancer. They may help strengthen the immune system . Vitamin C is a vital nutrient for boosting the immune system. Microgreens provide Vitamin C adequately, strengthening the immune system and making you less susceptible to illness. Further, microgreens help protect bones . Your bones need vitamin K and microgreens contain it in abundance. Lack of Vitamin K will increase the risk of fractures and reduce bone strength. They may help improve digestion. Microgreens contain vitamins C and B, essential to enhance iron absorption. Iron helps to turn food into energy and growth of gut microbes, which help to digest food. They are also a great form of fiber. It's thought that microgreens help in fighting various diseases, such as; Alzheimer's and anemia . Materials needed to grow microgreens. The materials you'll need to start growing microgreens include the following; Seeds You'll need to purchase seeds from your convenience store, gardening center, or online. You can buy them in bulk to save on cost, as you'll receive discounts. However, most microgreen seeds will remain viable for a few years if you store them in a dry, cool area. It's best if you use seeds that are new. Growing medium Soil is one of the popular mediums for growing microgreens. You can mix the soil using potting soil, vermiculite, perlite, and compost. Growing trays Growing trays are essential materials that you'll need when growing microgreens. They are of different sizes, and you can choose the right size depending on the number of seeds you want to grow. Ensure the tray has drainage holes for better farming practices. Growing mats Mats are easy to use and help distribute water evenly in growing trays. A woven hemp mat will hold water well, reducing the number of times you have to water the microgreens. Lighting Microgreens require light to photosynthesize and grow. Typically, they need 6 to 8 hours of light a day after the seed sprouts. If they lack light, microgreens will become pale and weak. Therefore, ensure your farm and your system allow enough lighting for microgreens. Heating mats It's essential to provide ideal conditions for germination seeds when growing microgreens. The roots grow better in warmer conditions, and a heating mat will provide the necessities. It increases the germination rate and the percentage of seeds that will germinate. Also, a heating mat will keep the microgreens warm during winter. Harvesting tools Depending on your microgreens portfolio, you might need scissors or knives/blades for harvesting. Ensure the tools are sharp to make harvesting effective and more enjoyable. pH Up/ pH Down They are chemicals used to adjust the pH of the water. Usually, pH increases pH, and pH down lowers the pH. pH down consists of food-grade phosphoric acid, and pH up contains potassium hydroxide and carbonate. How to grow Microgreens in 9 steps Follow these steps if you want to get started in growing microgreens on your farm. Get ready: Gather all the materials (shown above) needed for growing microgreens. Sanitize: Sanitize your growing trays using warm, soapy water. Also, spray it with hydrogen peroxide and rinse it out after 10 minutes. Lastly, dry off the tray using a clean cloth. Pre-soak the seeds : most seeds require soaking before spreading them over your soil. Submerge your seeds in a jar filled with water for soaking and ensure the water is sufficient. Prepare the trays: Put soil in a tray with drain holes and ensure the soil is fine without large particles like wood or stone to allow the seeds to germinate and develop properly. Spread the soil evenly and gently, tamp it flat, and dampen it by misting it or spraying it with water. Spread seeds: Spread the seeds evenly across the tray to avoid overseeding. Ensure there is enough room so all seeds get enough light, water, and air. Water and cover: Cover your seeds with a light layer of soil to increase the humidity for better seed germination. Mist the soil evenly and set the tray at the desired germination temperature. Depending on the species, uncover and mist regularly. Avoid excess moisture. Uncover: Uncover the tray when the baby leaves of your plant first emerge. Expose to sunlight: ensure the microgreens get plenty of sun for better development. Check it regularly and water it when necessary until harvest time. Harvest: Most microgreen species are ready for harvest ten days after sowing. You can harvest some types as early as seven days; most plants will not last 14 or 15 days before harvesting. Use the scissors to trim the microgreens above the soil line. Types of Microgreens Almost any type of vegetable or herb can be grown as microgreens. Some of the commonly grown microgreens include; Radish: Radish microgreens are one of the easiest and fastest microgreens to grow. You can harvest them 7 to 10 days after sowing. In addition, radishes are delicious and add some peppery flavor to your food. You can choose not to soak the seeds, but for higher yields, it's better to soak them. Sunflower microgreens: Sunflower microgreens are a prevalent type. It has a nutty flavor and similar taste to a sunflower seed, making it an ideal addition to soups, salads, and sandwiches. Sunflower microgreens grow quickly, and you can harvest them within 7 to 10 days. You'll need to soak the seeds in cold water 8-12 hours before sowing, and they need to be grown in soil. Peas: Peas are a popular type of microgreen and are ideal for beginners. They are sweet with a tender flavor and are a great addition to smoothies, juices, and salads. You can harvest peas after the true leaves open, which will happen 10 to 14 days after sowing. However, if you wait just a few days more the leaves will get bigger and become more tender and sweet. Try growing them a few different ways to see which ones you and your customers like best. Remember to take good notes so you know what you did on each growth cycle and stage. Other types of microgreens include; Cress Chicory Lettuce Basil Arugula Broccoli Cabbage Collard greens Kale Kohlrabi Mustard Issues facing Microgreens growers Growing microgreens is effective, but you can face issues such as; Mold Mold is the most common problem that microgreen growers deal with. Mold appears as black soot or white cobwebs and ruins microgreens. Mold can be caused by a few different things like bad drainage, high room humidity, over-seeding, and poor ventilation. Excess moisture Excess moisture will cause molds, leading to bacteria. Also, poor drainage in your farm will increase humidity leading to molds. The soil needs to be moist and not drenched. It should be spongy and not muddy if you press your fingers into the ground. Poor air circulation Insufficient airflow leads to mold formation in microgreens. You can install fans near your microgreen growing tray for better air circulation and to reduce humidity, reducing mold formation. Over-seeding Over-seeding causes a high density of stems leading to poor air circulation. Poor airflow will lead to molds. This can also lead to poor, late, or inconsistent germination. The seeds might be fighting for resources if you're having germination issues. Falling over There are a few reasons this might happen but check your water (they need a lot) and they might need more light. Watering from the top also might be causing this issue. Spray instead so the water force doesn't make them sag. Tall and Leggy Plants They may need more light. There is a balance with microgreens because you keep them in the dark for some period of time. Blackout time for microgreens should be 3-5 days max. Poor Environment Your environment is very important when growing microgreens. Many things can happen if you don't have the right humidity, light intensity, nutrients, water and temperature. Take care that they are getting the conditions they need. Taking good notes and being attentive will go a long way here. How to prevent mold on microgreens Apply the following tips to prevent the growth of Mold on microgreens; Clean your container to prevent bacteria or microbes from infecting your microgreens. Sanitize your seed by soaking it. Avoid overseeding for better air circulation. Maintain the proper soil moisture for the microgreens Use substrate pads instead of soil Fungus gnats Fungus gnats are another problem that microgreen growers face. Excess moisture is the leading cause of the issue. Fungus gnats are dangerous as they can carry fungal diseases. You can eliminate the fungus gnats by setting a trap near the microgreens. You can pour an inch of apple vinegar into a cup , add drops of dish soap, and mix it thoroughly. Then, cover it with plastic wrap and poke a small hole. Fungus gnats will fly into the trap and won't be able to get out. Washing and storing microgreens A microgreen harvest season is an exciting time for a farmer. But first, you need to learn how to wash and store microgreens properly. Washing microgreens You'll need to wash microgreens whether you applied pesticides or your growing medium. Washing helps to remove harmful bacteria, yeast, and more. You can wash microgreens using various techniques, such as Rinse and pat with a paper towel; Rinse your microgreens with cold water and pat them thoroughly and gently using a paper towel. Dunk in water and shake it off; if you grow microgreens on a small scale, this technique will work well for you. Dunk the top inches of the microgreen into a bowl of clean water and shake off the excess moisture. Salad spinner; Put your microgreens in a basket of your salad spinner, rinse them with cold water, and spin. Remove excess water, remove the microgreens, and dry them. Storing microgreens Microgreens are best when as fresh as possible. But if you're going to the store, you must learn how to do that effectively. Depending on the species, you can store them for 7 to 21 days. Avoid wetting the microgreens in the refrigerator to prevent a stinky and mushy mess. Use a paper towel and keep them covered until you're ready to use them. If you're marketing the microgreens using bags, leave ample air that increases the size of the bag to protect the fragile shoots. You can use Farmbrite to track the growing process, PH levels, nutrients, success rates, storage, rate of germination, and rate of loss as well as many other things. Take a look for free. Final thoughts Growing microgreens is a fun and rewarding activity. The activity is beneficial and a great way to utilize your farm. The process is easy, but there are pitfalls to avoid and steps to prevent getting it wrong. The steps are straightforward; even a first-time grower can grow successful microgreens on their farms. You can farm them for domestic use or commercial purposes to make money. Regardless of the reason for growing microgreens, the above guide will be helpful to get you started successfully.

Introduction to crop irrigation systems Irrigation systems are an important part of growing crops, and they can be crucial when it comes to crop yields. Without proper irrigation, many crops would not be able to grow at all. There are a few different types of irrigation systems that you should know about before making any purchase decisions. We’ve put together a guide of the most common types so you can choose the best one for your farm. Drip irrigation Drip irrigation is one of the most popular types of crop irrigation systems. Drip irrigation is a method of irrigation where water is applied directly to the soil, at a rate that is measured for each individual plant. Therefore, it is highly customizable and helps to reduce water usage. Drip systems consist of an emitter (or drip tube) that perforates the soil surface and delivers water directly to plant roots in small amounts. The most common type of drip system uses polyethylene tubing with emitters spaced along its length; however, there are also other types available such as gator tubing and micro-sprinklers that allow you to customize how much water each plant receives based on its needs. Drip irrigation is the simplest form of water delivery, and it can be used with a timer, a pump, a filter and controller (used to control multiple zones), or even valves and pressure regulators. The drip system has many different components that are used together to deliver water directly onto your plants' roots. Micro irrigation Micro irrigation is a type of drip irrigation system that uses small-diameter tubing and emitters (a device that delivers water). It's often used in greenhouses and nurseries, but it can also be used in vegetable gardens, flower gardens , orchards, and even trees. Drip Tape and Tubing Drip tape and tubing are used in drip irrigation systems. Drip tape is a flexible plastic tube used to deliver water from the water source to the plants. It comes in different diameters, lengths, and colors. The most common diameter is 1/4 inch; however, you can also find 3/8-inch or 1/2-inch sizes on the market. Tubing typically has an inside diameter of 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch; however, it's important that your choice matches up with what your drip irrigation system requires so that you don't get stuck with extra parts when installing your system! Flood Irrigation Flood irrigation is the method of distributing water over an entire field at one time. Water is distributed in a flood style, meaning it flows out of the irrigation system and covers all areas of a field before draining off. This method is used on small areas that don't need to be subdivided into sections or zones (like lateral systems do), but instead are covered by one large sprinkler head or series of sprinkler heads. Flood irrigation provides high rates of flow and works well with small, fragile plants like lettuce or spinach. This is because it delivers consistent amounts of water throughout their growth cycles without damaging them due to excessive moisture levels in any given area. Sprinkler Irrigation Sprinkler irrigation is the most common type of irrigation system. It's used for large areas of land and can be used for crops that need to be watered every day or every other day. Sprinklers spray water over crops, usually from above or at an angle from above. It's important to note that sprinklers do not deliver water directly to plants' roots, so they're not ideal for crops with shallow root systems (like lettuce). Sprinklers are also less efficient at delivering nutrients than drip systems because they don't deliver smaller amounts of water over a longer period of time. They're easy to install and maintain - you just need good drainage around your fields and some sort of water supply (like a well). This kind of system is also cheaper than others because it doesn't require as much equipment or labor costs. However, sprinklers waste a lot of water by spraying it out into space rather than directly onto plants; this means that not all plants may get enough water when using this method alone. Soaker Hose Soaker hose irrigation is a type of drip irrigation system that allows water to be applied directly to the ground. It's made up of thin tubes that run along your garden beds and allow water to flow through them, soaking into the soil rather than running off as it would with normal sprinklers or hoses. In reference to irrigation, it conserves the most water. Soaker hoses are laid out on the ground in a series of parallel lines, with each line spaced about 18 inches apart from one another (the exact distance depends on how much pressure you want your soaker hose system to have). Once they're laid out, you can attach an automatic timer that will turn on periodically throughout each day - this will keep algae growth at bay since there won't be stagnant pools of water sitting around for too long! Center Pivot Systems The center pivot irrigation system uses a long, rotating sprinkler that moves along a straight line. This type of irrigation is ideal for crops that need consistent water, such as corn or cotton. Center pivots are also used on larger areas than other types of systems - approximately 20 acres (8 hectares) per machine and up to 1,000 acres (405 hectares) with multiple machines running at once. Center Pivot Systems Consist of Three Main Parts: The head - the part that contains the nozzles and rotates in one direction or another depending on whether you're using clockwise or counterclockwise rotation mode; The drive mechanism - which powers the entire system; and A pressure tank - a container filled with pressurized water that sends it through tubes under pressure so they can reach their destination. Gravity-Fed Systems In a gravity-fed irrigation system, water is fed to the plants through pipes that run along the ground. The water flows down from an elevated tank and into the main line by way of a pump or siphon. The Benefits of Gravity-Fed Irrigation Include: Efficiency: Gravity-fed systems use less power than electric pumps; therefore, they're more energy-efficient than electric systems. They also tend to cost less since there's no need for electricity or batteries in the field - you only need one line going from your tank/pump house into each row you want irrigated (and then branching off into smaller lines). Easy Installation: These systems are easier to install because they require fewer parts than many other types of irrigation methods such as drip systems or sprinklers. Once everything has been laid out properly, it shouldn't take more than half an hour per acre-foot (.5 acre) of water spread across several acres worth of crops! Importance of crop irrigation systems Crop irrigation systems play a crucial role in modern agriculture by providing a reliable and efficient way to water crops. With changing climate patterns and increasing water scarcity, farmers need to use water more efficiently to ensure maximum crop yield. Irrigation systems allow farmers to deliver precisely the right amount of water to their crops, which can help reduce water waste and improve the overall health of the plants. Additionally, these systems can help farmers maintain crop stability during droughts or periods of low rainfall, ensuring a consistent and reliable food supply. Overall, crop irrigation systems are essential to the success of modern farming practices and are key to meeting the growing demand for food in a sustainable way. A key aspect of any of these irrigation systems is soil moisture. Final thoughts on irrigation systems As you can see, there are several different types of crop irrigation systems to choose from. When choosing an irrigation system for your farm, it’s important to consider the advantages and disadvantages of each. If you're looking for a way to manage your irrigation, take a look at Farmbrite . Try it for free today . Sources: https://www.cdc.gov/healthywater/other/agricultural/types.html

Farming is hard, but incredibly important and rewarding work. Over the years we've talked with and helped lots of farmers to grow and thrive in farming. During that time we've seen a few common things that get new farmers into trouble. In this article, we outline the best practices and how to stay away from those pitfalls. Keep reading to learn about 7 common mistakes new farmers make - and most importantly how to avoid them. Many of us grew up playing with farm toys; cute farm animals and shiny tractors and as we grew so did that ideal of farming. Some people think that the best thing in the world would be sitting on a tractor in a field away from offices, traffic, and people. That does sound nice but not everyone farms that way. The question is, what does farming entail and is it really for you? To complicate matters, there are lots of retiring farmers and unfortunately, we don't have a rush of new farmers taking their place. So, we need new farmers because otherwise who will grow our food? Are you part of the next generation of farmers? If so, I'm so glad you're here!  We talk to farmers every day and we see the struggles they encounter. They are small businesses that need customers, they need organization and they need time and energy to run things on their farm. So, here are some common things that get farmers into trouble and how to avoid them yourself as a new farmer.  Ok. Let's dive in and look at the top 7 mistakes new farmers make and how to avoid them. Mistake No. 1 : Running Your Farm as a Hobby, not a Business If you're trying to make money from farming then the bottom line is, this is a business you're running. Run it like one. If you love beets, are super passionate about them and their health benefits, how they taste, whatever. That's awesome but if beets are not popular in your area and you can't sell them, then they won't be profitable and you should not be growing beets, unless, of course, it's for yourself. Sell something that you can sell in your market. Go to local restaurants and see what they need. Look online at the restaurant menu and see what they offer. This is doing market research. I've known farmers that grow greens and bring them fresh and beautiful to the restaurants, to show them what they offer and sell them right off the truck. If that feels too pushy call first and try to make connections at the restaurant. Ask questions about what specifically they want to serve and ask if you grew that would they buy it from you. Talk to groups of friends, neighbors or groups you are in, people you know and see what they want to buy. Whatever you plan to sell you need to have a plan to sell to paying customers. Which brings me to my next mistake on the list. Mistake No. 2: No Farm Business Plan This is a common business mistake, not having a plan. You might be passionate about sheep and want to sell your wool, meat, and milk. That's awesome, but not only do you need to know how to take care of sheep, you also need to plan out costs, set up the company, where your customers are, how you plan on running your business, etc. Have a plan and spend the time to write it all out; the Who, What, Where, When and Why. (Do this before you buy the animals or grow the plants.) It's a sad fact that about half of small businesses fail and I don't want to see that happen for you. There are a ton of business plan templates online that are free and easy to use. Any of them will get you started on writing out your dream. We've heard it before, and I'm saying it again; A goal without a plan is just a wish. Don't wish. Be very clear about what you want to do, where you're going to do that, and what steps you're taking to get there.  A brief business plan overview: Executive Summary (Who you are) Company Summary (What is your business) Market Analysis (Who and Where are your customers) Organization & Management (Business structure) Services or Products (What you're going to sell) Marketing & Sales (Projections on profit) Financials (Start-up costs) A great resource that is available to help build your business plan is here . Too many people think the business plan might seem like an unnecessary step but it's very important to have your path clearly marked. You wouldn't start out on a trip without knowing about the place you're visiting, where you want to go, where you're going to stay, etc. Starting out in a new business is very similar. Key point: Include a marketing plan in your business plan. Write out what makes you different from your competition. These are your strengths. What makes your farm different or better than other farms in your market? Reevaluate your competitive advantage and your marketing plan annually so that you know who you're up against. Write down your weaknesses as well so you can work on them or get help to overcome them. Mistake No. 3: Not adapting to your market Being adaptable and innovating in your specific market is an important step in business. Markets change and we need to adapt to them. Avocados weren't a superfood 10 years ago. (We didn't even know what a superfood was 10 years ago.) Look around for what is missing or needed in your area (and grows well there) and you might just find your niche! Finding these new markets is the challenge with any business, we just happen to be talking about farming. Being innovative in business can be challenging but fun. Here are 7 ways to innovate in your market. 7 steps to innovate in your farm business Find a need or market. (Use complaints or difficulties you've heard from clients to drive this need) Learn about the product; its uses, production, and issues (Ask the customers) Talk to other producers about problems, solutions, and costs they have Secure start-up capital if needed Do the work - or get help if you need to Be prepared for mistakes and keep going! Be optimistic about your business but realistic (keep track of everything) Find what is valuable in your market and bring that to your customers and they will keep coming back. Mistake No. 4: Under or Over Investing There's a balance that you need to find between buying everything you want right away and only getting what you need at the moment. You don't want to take on too much in the beginning without being profitable. Often, to get land you will have to take a loan or lease space, sometimes there's machinery or fencing needed all of which costs money to buy. How are you going to get those bales of hay or livestock to your land? What about the seeds to grow those vegetables? They all cost money. Use everything you have before expanding. Often new farmers (and businesses) will want to expand before they can really support that expansion. Be smart about available space. Could you grow on arbors instead of flat land? Could you mob-graze so you have smaller pieces of land being used for short time periods? There are lots of options for thinking outside of the traditional methods. Looks at some of those to grow smart. Borrow or rent where you can. For instance, instead of purchasing a tractor that costs a lot upfront and will depreciate over time, is there the possibility that you could borrow one or rent one from a friend? There are places that you can rent equipment and although you still have a cost associated with renting it might now be as much as purchasing. This is a good idea for equipment you don't use very often. Or, what about no-till or low-till? There are ways to get started without burying yourself in debt. You don't have to buy everything at once. Be smart about it. Go slow to incorporate types of operations on your farm. This is where the plan comes in. How will year 1 be different than year 5? How will you have grown? A great option is to find a farm mentor or spend a season as a farmhand or WOLFF . Get real-life hands-on training on a farm and see if you even like it, what would you do differently than the farmer you work for? What unique thing do you have to offer? Mistake No. 5: Being Overly Optimistic You're going to fail and that's not a bad thing. You're going to lose crops to weather and/or drought and/or pests and disease. You're going to lose animals to predators and/or disease. These are really hard and sad lessons. Sometimes you just want to throw in the towel or get a do-over so you can put up a better fence or be less hard-headed and buy the insurance. They are lessons that you learn from and then you do better the next time. How many times did Edison fail at making a light bulb? Plenty. If you think about it, each farmer gets about 30-40 seasons to make their mistakes and learn from them before they stop farming. I wish they would have a class on agriculture in schools because each time a farmer retires and doesn't pass on this information to the next generation, we lose all that valuable knowledge. I know this firsthand because my great-grandparents were dairy farmers and my grandparents were chicken farmers. None of that information was passed on to me and I've had to figure it out as I go. I'm pretty positive my great-grandparents would have some excellent advice for me and we would certainly commiserate about the mistakes we've all made. So, make your mistakes but be sure to learn from them so you can do it better next season. Mistake No. 6: Not Measuring (and Optimizing) Your Farm Activities I see this one most of all. After about 3 or 4 years, a farm will begin to feel like it should be more organized and things could be running better and then they start looking for a better way. Let me know if this sounds familiar: You're selling some livestock- let's call it sheep. Your customer wants to start a small herd and needs to know that the sheep are not closely related. To see exactly who begat whom you break out a 3 ring binder notebook of your flock through the years. This notebook has seen some things. There are suspicious stains on this notebook and they may or may not be sheep placenta. Nothing wrong with some honest placenta but does it need to be presented in record form in front of your customer? Probably not. Keep your records in a place that they are easy to get to and clean up well if you have to show them to your customers. The best place might be online, or at least on your computer. Use spreadsheets if not a farm management system like Farmbrite . Not only will keeping organized records make you look more professional and organized in front of your customers, but keeping organized records shows you clearly where you're making money and where you're taking a loss. How did your orchard produce last year? How about your bees or cattle? How much profit did you make overall? How much did you spend on feed? When did you last check for parasites? How many animals have you lost to them? How can you do it better next year? This is why you keep records. Keeping records also helps you track of things you're going to forget. Like when you last changed the oil in the tractor? It's not the fun part of farming but it's necessary. If you don't write it down, those things will disappear. Mistake No. 7: Not Selling Your Brand Identity If you sell a product to a customer they want to know about you. They want to know your story, why and how you grow the produce or livestock you do, who you are, and what you stand for. This makes you unique to your competitors down the street who might not be telling a very compelling story about themselves. This is what is unique about you and your farm and you should tell that story so others can come on the journey with you. Here is an in-depth article about building brand identity. There are lots of ways to miss in business but there are even more ways to succeed. I hope that you will take a few of these mistakes to heart as you start your farm business. Be yourself, have a plan, and take small steps as you go and you'll do really well. Best of luck to you and Happy Farming! We all speak agriculture. If you're just getting started in farming we want to help. Check out our new farmer discounts specially designed for new farmers like you. Here are some additional links to other resources from all over the world that might give you additional information and help as you get started: 40 maps that explain food in America Young Agrarians : Information about getting started in Canada USDA : Beginning farmer information Beginning Farmers: Info on getting started Young farmers: Information for small farmers in the UK Small farms international: The future of International farming ​Farm Africa: Agriculture in Africa

As spring starts to creep into the air in the northern hemisphere, it’s time to start planning for and preparing for spring plantings. In many places farmers have already been sowing and tending starts by growing in high tunnels or greenhouses , giving them an early start and a way to extend their growing season. As growers are finalizing their spring planting plans and starting to prepare fields for planting we thought it would be helpful to share some common methods and approaches to getting a field ready for planting. Till vs No-Till Before we dive into the common soil preparation methods, let’s talk about no-till farming (zero tillage or direct drilling). No-till farming is a farming technique for growing without disturbing the soil through tillage. There are many benefits to no-till farming, including decreasing soil erosion, reducing irrigation needs, minimizing fertilizer and amendments, reducing weed pressure, and preserving soil biology, nutrients, and health. No-tilling typically occurs by either over-seeding or direct seeding through or over a previous cover crop. The cover crop acts as mulch and compost for the new planting and additional weed protection. In some cases, farmers may apply an herbicide to the previous cover crop or can use silage tarps to prepare the bed for planting. Silage tarps are large UV-coated plastic that can be spread over a cover crop and within as little as 3 weeks can suffocate and kill the previous cover weed seeds laying dormant in that area. This process safely protects the microbiology and nutrients of the underlying soil. When complete, you're left with a bed ready to plant with minimal labor and a high nutrient load. Today tillage is the most common way that farms prepare their soil, but more and more farmers are seeing the benefits of no-till or low-till techniques that use minimal or shallow tillage, by using a disc harrow. There are different methods and equipment needs to pro and con in any type of soil preparation, so be sure to do your research to understand more about what might work best for your operation. Let the Soil Dry In many areas, spring means lots of moisture in the form of rain or snow, which is great for getting moisture to perennial plants and trees, but is not so great for soil preparation. Trying to work water-logged soils is difficult and also creates excess soil compaction which causes root impediments and nutrient loss. Before you start digging, plowing, or tilling it’s important to make sure the moisture level in the soil has dropped to workable levels. To test if the soil is dry enough you can perform a basic soil test. Make sure to do this in a few different areas of the field you’re planning to prepare. Scoop up a handful of soil and squeeze it into a ball with light pressure, then drop the ball of soil on a hard surface like a rock or your boot, if the ball bounces (or forms a puddle) you should probably wait, but if the ball easily breaks apart, your soil is likely dry enough to start preparing. Mowing & Incorporating Cover Crops For farmers who used fall or winter cover crops to add nutrients, change PH levels, or otherwise stabilize and improve their soil health, mowing and incorporating the cover crops into the field is an important step before preparing beds and planting. The first step to this is to cut the cover crop, so whether with a tractor, walk-behind tractor, heavy-duty mower, or old-fashioned scythe you’ll want to cut down the cover crop to allow it to start to decompose. Once you’ve cut the cover crop down, let the plant matter settle in place for a few days before incorporating it into the soil through tilling (there are different approaches for no-till operations like rolling or crimping vs cutting ). After the cover crop or plant matter has settled for a few days the plant and root material should be fully tilled or plowed into the field. Fully breaking down the cover crop will help the nutrients be more easily absorbed into the soil and minimize the risk of re-growth from the cover crop. Ideally, allow the field to rest for 3-6 weeks after incorporating your cover crop before preparing beds or sowing seeds to allow for the maximum absorption of nutrients into the soil. Check out some top cover crops that might benefit your soil. Testing your Soil While soil samples are often taken in the fall (to understand the soil health post-harvest), taking an additional solid sample in the spring (after the incorporation of cover crops) can help to provide details about overall soil health and any amendments you might want to consider. Because soil is an active, diverse, and dynamic biological system it’s a good idea to check in on the health of your soil in regular intervals. Think of your soil samples as a regular check-up for your soil - learn more about soil samples and testing . Soil Amendments & Compost Depending on the health, nutrients, structure, or composition of your soil you may find yourself needing to add something or many things to it to create the ideal environment for your planned crops. In addition to the nutrient value, organic soil amendments also provide additional benefits like loosening clay and compact soil, improving water retention for sandy soils, increasing soil loom, and reducing labor for digging and tillage. When adding compost or other organic matter, it’s important to not add more than 3-4 inches to the soil. There are numerous types of solid amendments and we can’t cover them all here in this article, but we’ll focus on some of the more common organic ones: Plant Matter As we mentioned earlier, incorporating cover crops into your soil is an excellent way to add additional nutrients to the soil. But you can also add other organic plant matter like leaves, straw, or grass clippings. It’s ideal to add these types of amendments in the fall to allow them time to decompose over the winter. Compost Whether you make your own compost or buy from a local producer, compost is an excellent source of additional organic matter and nutrients to incorporate into your soil. Compost is also an excellent medium to integrate other amendments like gypsum, biochar, kelp, manures, azomite, humates, bone meal, sea minerals, boron, copper, or zinc, etc. It’s ideal to mix any additional amendments with your compost a few weeks ahead of time before you incorporate it. Manure Manure is also an excellent source of additional nutrients. Effectively you’ve let cattle, goats, sheep, or other livestock do the hard work of composting plant matter for you. Be sure to let manure age before using as fresh manure can damage and burn plants and can also introduce harmful bacteria. It’s typically recommended to add about 30-40 lbs of aged and composted manure for every 100 sqft of soil. Green Manure Green manure is a way of growing a nutrient-rich plant, cutting it and leaving it so it can break down back into the soil and then tilling it in before you plant. Planting rye, oats, or other cover crops in the fall after this soil preparation is an excellent way to incorporate additional organic matter and improve soil health. Check out the section above to learn more about Mowing & Incorporating Cover Crops in case you missed it. Gypsum or Sand For heavy clay soils, adding gypsum or sand can help to loosen the clay soil and make it more workable. Adding 3-4 lbs of gypsum per 100 sqft after your fall harvest can help improve the workability of heavy clay soils come spring planting time. Tilling or Plowing the Field If you choose to till you should try to till as deeply as possible, at least 8-10 inches. This loosens the soil, breaks up existing plant matter, and allows for deeper root depth for your crops. Regardless of whether you till using a walk-behind tractor , rototiller, or a traditional tractor, be sure to till when the soil is dry, as working wet soil is not only difficult, but it causes additional compaction and damage to the soil. To make spring tilling easier you can also spade or fork the soil in the winter to prepare for spring planting. Type of Plows for Soil Preparation Digging in the dirt and preparing beds is hard work, but fortunately, there are many mechanized solutions out there to help get your soil (in whatever condition it's in now) ready for planting. Depending on the field conditions and types of crops you're planting you may need to use different implements to prepare the soil. There are various types of plows and configurations of plows that allow for various depths, aeration, and impact on the soil. If you're shopping for a plow or tractor attachment we recommend talking to your friendly neighborhood farm equipment retailer and friends and neighbors to discuss your options and specific needs, soil conditions, crop plans, etc. We’ll try and provide an overview of different implements that you might use to prepare your soil. Rototiller Rototillers come in all shapes and sizes from your backyard garden front or rear-tined, to walk-behind tractor attachments to heavy-duty tractor mounted PTO driven Rototillers. In all cases, they perform the same function as using rotating tines (discs) to dig into, loosen, and break up the soil. Rototillers work well when breaking up compacted soils. Moldboard Plow Moldboard plows use a large curved blade that is pulled across the ground by a tractor. As it’s pulled across the ground it digs deep into the ground cutting a row and turning the soil. This type of plow cuts, lifts, breaks up, and loosens the soil. This process also loosens and aerates the soil and leaves behind a trough that can be used for planting. Reversible Garden Plow Reversible Plows are similar to a moldboard plow, but have a set of 2 or more reversible blades. These blades can be mounted in different positions and directions allowing for the creation of various space furrows or mounds. This is usually used for deep tillage to turn over the upper layer of the soil bringing up fresh nutrients. Chisel Plow Unlike a Moldboard, chisel plows use a curved chisel/rod that digs into the soil for aeration and loosening the soil without turning the soil. It leaves the crop residue on the surface of the soil. You can find chisel plows in various configurations, widths, and with different types of chisels. Because they are not turning the soil, chisel plows are less damaging to the soil health as they cause less impact. Disc / Harrow Plow Disc plows are pulled behind a tractor and have multiple rows of rotating steel discs that turn as they are dragged. Disc plows work well to plow hard rough ground to pulverize and break up very compact soil. Subsoil Plow Used for breaking up the soil underneath a hardpan layer (typically caused by chemical treatments), a subsoil plow works by pulling lower layers of soil up to the surface without turning it. This action tills and aerates the soil and minimizes soil compaction. It also allows water to penetrate the soil to break up the hardpan layer. Preparing Beds and Rows for Planting Now that your field is dry, amended, and tilled it’s time to prepare it for planting. Often fields are prepared into beds making planting, maintenance, and harvesting easier and more efficient. Additionally, creating beds in your field allows for water to drain away from the plant roots, provides a trough for irrigation, and encourages airflow. Before making beds it’s important to try and flatten your growing area. A level surface will allow for easier germination when direct sowing or a smoother platform to transplant into. To level your field, use a pull-behind rake attachment or a good soil rake. Once your ground is level you’ll want to try and create rows (furrows) about every 36” (if your garden is large enough). Beds (in the US) are typically 36” wide and often 100’ long. While straight beds are pretty to look at, they are not necessary. If you’re using any type of hoops or other crop covers be sure to consider the size of those when creating your beds. Also, planning for irrigation before creating beds and planting is important. We’ll cover more on irrigation in another post. For smaller gardens, you can mark your bed width using a board cut 36” long and use a hoe or other hand tool to dig a furrow along the length of the bed, typically about 8-10” deep. For larger areas, you might choose to invest in a tractor attachment to help cut, level, and shape your beds. Once your beds are leveled and shaped it’s time to start planting on top of your beds. Resources for Field Preparation Overview of no-till farming from Rodale Institute Tips for the No-till curious from farmers.gov Economic analysis of no-till farming from the USDA Composting basics from the EPA How to compost at home Tillage Systems Information from the University of Nebraska Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources Cropwatch A guide to soil testing from NC State Soil testing resources from UMass Summary We’ve covered a lot in this post and hopefully, you’ve learned a little more about different methods and techniques to prepare your fields for spring planting. Happy farming out there! If you're interested in learning more about how Farmbrite can help keep track of equipment, and your other farm management needs, give us a try here .

The days are shorter, the heat has subsided and the harvest is either active or finished. However, that doesn’t mean there isn’t new life to plant. Depending on region and soil, there’s potential for additional income nurtured from the land. Here are the top three most profitable and nutritious crops to plant this fall. Growing Leafy Greens The go-to vegetable is leafy greens! This is the broadest category as there are so many vitamin-rich plants that withstand harsh temperatures. What is a leafy green? The category can include broccoli leaf, collard greens, endives, radicchio, cress, mustard greens, green or red rainbow chard, parsley, cilantro, green or red lacinato kale, green or red romaine or iceberg lettuce, spinach, and kale. What Crops Do I Start With? Many new farmers start by growing spinach. Spinach is the third most popular vegetable in America. You might start with spinach because it is a very popular crop and sells well. But to distinguish yourself in a market that is saturated with other vendors we suggest adding something a little different to your line-up, like kale. Growing Kale Kale is often noted as one of the most nutrient-dense vegetables on earth. This is due to the leafy greens’ vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. And, to absorb the most nutrients, it’s recommended to eat kale raw so as to not alter the composition. Kale Components One cup of raw kale contains 684% of the Daily Value (DV) of vitamin K, 206% of the DV for vitamin A, and 134% of the DV for vitamin C. Writer Autumn Enloe, MS, RD, LD, also noted for heathline.com , “It also contains antioxidants such as lutein and beta-carotene, which reduce the risk of diseases caused by oxidative stress.” Farmers and consumers have been keen to choose kale, and it’s documented. “The majority of kale is grown domestically in California and Georgia, and a large portion of kale production is certified organic. From 2007 to 2012, the number of farms reporting growing kale more than doubled from 1,000 to 2,500, with 1,680 acres having been harvested in California.” Kale Is An Easy Crop To grow “Kale is an easy crop to grow and integrate into a farming system due to its resistance to most pests (it is susceptible to a few common pests, such as black diamond moth) and diseases, as well as its ability to thrive in cool environments. Farmers’ markets also play a role in the success of kale and other leafy greens due to season-extending techniques such as cultivation using hoop houses (also known as polytunnels), which create a longer market season.” — Colorado Integrated Food Safety Center of Excellence, a branch of Colorado State University . Growing Brussels Sprouts This nutrient-dense vegetable is best planted as a fall crop in warmer regions. The produce loves cool weather and can even handle a little bit of frost. Brussels sprouts truly can be grown in any region of the United States. Again, the majority of the crop is currently grown in California. When you take a drive through the stunning coastal locales of Monterey, Santa Cruz, and San Mateo you will see thousands of acres of year-round Brussels sprout farms. The crop soaks up the cool, ocean air and delivers produce from June through January. In a 2008 survey conducted by Heinz, it revealed that Brussels sprouts are the most-hated vegetable in America. A similar poll in Britain found the vilified vegetables at the top of the most-hated list there, too. And yet, Brits grow about six times more of the baby cabbages than we do in the U.S. Times Have Changed However, fast-forward to 2022, and the tiny cabbage is racing up the charts in popularity. People have caught onto the health trend. “Brussels sprouts are an excellent source of vitamin A, vitamin C (way more than an orange, by the way), vitamin K, as well as beta carotene, folic acid, iron, magnesium, and fiber. They’re also high in selenium, which is associated with reduced risks of certain cancers, as well as increased male virility. Demand is High for Brussels Sprouts “According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Retail Report, Brussels sells best on promotion around Thanksgiving and Christmas, but promotions during other parts of the year are on the rise….The study found the average number of stores with Brussels on promotion in 2016 increased 70 percent from just three years prior, from 462 per week in 2013 to 787 per week…That means acreage is up as growers struggle to meet increasing demand for fresh as well as value-added and processed Brussels sprout products.” —Produce Processing, from Raw to Ready. The same article interviewed growers and got this response. “Now we’re up over 10,000 (acres) in California and more in Mexico. And where it used to be that the crop went to 80 percent frozen and 20 percent fresh, that’s flip-flopped. Now it’s about 15 percent frozen and 85 percent fresh because of demand. And we’re getting more money for the fresh because we can’t meet demand.” — Steve Bontadelli, general manager of Brussels sprouts grower, packer, and shipper in Santa Cruz, California. A True Renaissance For Tiny Cabbage Another interviewee from the article noted this. “Brussels is undergoing a renaissance,” said Jacob Shafer, a spokesman for Mann's. “The rise is, in some ways, connected to recent research stating Brussels sprouts are as rich a source of many nutrients compared with kale.” Types of Brussels Sprouts Choose which variety will grow best in your region as there are over a dozen, and they come in all different sizes. The most popular choices are Bubbles, Prince Marvel, and Oliver. When growing Brussels sprouts you should plant them when it's cool. Choose a place with fertile soil and lots of sun. They will take about 80-100 days to grow so they will be perfect to harvest just before those last frosts. Growing Blueberries Our third choice is the blueberry! Beware, this crop will not be able to produce an immediate yield in its primary years, but with time, it’s one of the greatest financial rewards in terms of dollars per pound. The blueberry bush performs well in a multitude of climates and altitudes. Identify which type of blueberry will grow best on your land. There are four types of blueberries: Highbush, Lowbush, Hybrid HalfHhigh, and Rabbiteye Blueberries. Blueberries can be planted in spring or also in late fall in all but the coldest regions. In Zones 5 and below, it’s best to wait until early to mid-spring to plant. If available, 1- to 3-year-old plants are a good choice. These can be bought in containers or bare-root. Blueberries do grow slowly, and their growth might seem imperceptible each year. So, patience is key. It takes a blueberry bush about 10 years to reach mature size, but this also means they will live a long time. Color Translates To Health Benefits Their stunning color variety of deep indigo to royal blue packs a big nutrient punch. Megan Ware reported for Medical News Today that, “Blueberries contain a plant compound called anthocyanin. This gives blueberries both their blue color and many of their health benefits. Blueberries can help heart health, bone strength, skin health, blood pressure, diabetes management, cancer prevention, and mental health. Amazingly, one cup of blueberries provides 24 percent of a person's recommended daily allowance of vitamin C. Pro Tip: Try and plant a few different fall produce options to see what best suits the land. And, if possible, add a bit of mulch around the base of any plants you put into the ground. It helps protect against frost. And, blueberry bushes also thrive in containers if you want to test different spaces in your land. Vitamin-dense vegetables and fruits are in high demand. Try planting these three fall crops to be the most profitable. Kale, Brussels Sprouts, and Blueberries pack incredible nutritional and financial value for farmers. Take your farm to the next level by managing it using Farmbrite, farm management software . You can easily see what crops are producing for you and which ones are not. We give you tools to make informed and profitable decisions on your farm to keep you organized all year long. Author: Julie Bielenberg, a writer and farmer on the western slope of Colorado.

The Ultimate Guide to Vermiculture If you're looking to save money and get healthier soil in your garden, a worm farm is the perfect solution. You'll be able to turn your food scraps into rich compost while feeding your worms with kitchen scraps and other carbon-rich materials like shredded paper or leaves. Worms are great at recycling food and turning it into rich soil—and they don't need much care! Here's everything you need to know about building a worm farm for your home. Choose The Right Worms Choosing the right type of worms is an important step in building your vermiculture farm. Red wigglers are the most common worms for composting because they're easy to care for and reproduce quickly. They eat a lot of food and produce a lot of compost—which makes them an ideal creature to have in your worm farm. Additionally, red wigglers aren't fussy about humidity or temperature (they like dark, damp places) so if you want to keep your farm indoors or in a humid environment like Florida, they'll do just fine! If your goal is a more advanced worm farm, you can try the Swedish Red Wigglers. They're smaller than red wigglers and have a longer lifespan (about 2 years), but they do require more care. They need humidity levels around 70% and a temperature between 50-75 degrees Fahrenheit. They also prefer to be fed on fruit and vegetable scraps, so if you're looking for something more sustainable or just want a different type of composting experience, this is a great option! Pick a Bin That's Right For You You can use any type of container for your vermiculture farm, but make sure it's large enough to hold all your worms. You'll also need a way to easily clean it without affecting the worms inside. A plastic bin will be easier to clean than a wooden crate or bucket, which you would have to empty out completely and scrub down before putting your worm farm back in. If you choose a plastic bin, make sure it has holes in the bottom so that moisture can escape. If not, moisture could build up and cause mold or mildew growth on top of your compost heap—which means bad news for both yourself and your worms! The container should also be easy to access and move around. If you plan on keeping your worm farm in a basement or garage, for example, it shouldn't be too heavy to lift or too large to move out of the way when necessary. Keep Your Worm Farm in a Cool, Dry Place The ideal place to keep your worm farm is in a cool, dry place. Be sure not to put it in direct sunlight or an area that gets cold, as this could kill off your worms and make them sick. In addition, if you live somewhere with high humidity (for example, the Pacific Northwest), you may want to consider keeping your vermiculture farm inside on a bookshelf. With enough sunlight and ventilation, you can also keep your worm farm outside. Just make sure that the worms have a place to hide from the rain and protection from the elements so that they won’t get too cold in winter. If you’re having trouble finding the right place for your worm farm, consider using a small fan to increase ventilation. You can also try placing it near an open window or outside on a table where there is some airflow. Give Them Lots of Airflow Speaking of airflow, this is essential to the worms’ survival. You can provide air flow by using a fan or opening windows in your worm bin, but be careful not to let any rain or snow get inside. If you do use a fan, make sure it doesn’t blow directly on the bedding layer—you want it to circulate around the whole system. You should also make sure that there are holes in your bin for ventilation, as well as gaps between your lid and bin so that oxygen can seep through. Check regularly with a thermometer (or even just by putting your hand down into the bedding) to ensure that there isn't too much heat or cold coming from inside of it; if either one gets too extreme, then it can kill some of your compost worms. If you notice that your bin is getting too hot or cold, there are a few things that you can do to fix the problem. If it's cold outside, then adding some insulation (like bubble wrap) around the bottom of your bin will help keep heat from escaping. If it's hot outside, placing some ice cubes in a small plastic baggie and placing them on top of your bedding will help cool down your system without having to open up the lid. Mix in "browns," or Carbon-Rich Foods In general, any type of food can be used for your worm farm. However, you should remember to mix in "browns," or carbon-rich foods like leaves and newspaper. Brown materials contain carbon, which is needed by worms to produce vitamin B12 and other nutrients that are essential for their health. The inclusion of brown material will help keep your worms healthy! Some examples of browns are leaves, newspapers (without glossy ink), cardboard egg cartons (empty), paper towels (used dry), scrap cardboard boxes, and old magazines (no glossy pages). Here is more information on using compost in your worm farm. You can also use food scraps and kitchen waste to feed your worm farm. The best way to do this is to place it in a covered bin, like a garbage can. You may want to add soil or dirt to the bin so that your worms have something to crawl on. When you see eggs or worms coming out of the material, it's time to start feeding your worms! If you aren't sure about a food, it's best to avoid feeding it to your worms. If you are unsure about whether or not something is safe for your worms, check with a local vermiculture expert. Keep Track of Your Worms Another key part of vermiculture is keeping track of what you're feeding your worms, their temperatures, what you've added, and how much they have broken down. You can do this by using Farmbrite, an online farm and livestock management tool. Try today for free. Choose the Right Bedding Be sure to use bedding like sand, shredded paper, or small wood chips that are free from chemicals or dyes. The most important thing is to sure your bedding is non-toxic and easy to find so you can replace it easily. Try not to use any type of paper that might contain dyes or chemicals as these can be harmful for the worms and will affect their health over time. You may want to try shredded newspaper instead of regular paper, as it's softer on the worms’ skin when they crawl through it. You can also use shredded cardboard or paper bags, as long as they aren’t coated with plastic. You should avoid using any type of plastic in your worm bin because worms cannot digest it and it will contaminate your compost pile. How to Set Up Your Worm Farm Once you have your bin, the first step in setting up your worm farm is to fill it with bedding. Then you can add your worms, making sure they're covered with another layer of moist bedding before adding food. If you choose to use newspaper as a bedding material rather than soil or compost, be sure not to use glossy paper because it can cause irritation to the worm’s skin. If you're using a plastic bin, it's important to note that these containers should never be used for storing food. They are not airtight and will allow oxygen to escape, which can cause your worms to die. Maintaining your worm farm If you’re looking for a way to keep your worm population healthy and happy, crushed eggshells are a great addition to your farm. They can provide your worms with calcium, phosphorous, magnesium, and zinc—and even copper in the case of older eggs. Eggshells will also help to maintain proper pH levels in your worm farm. This is especially important if you are growing your own food waste in an urban area where the soil may be low in nutrients. Some experts recommend adding crushed eggshells on top of each layer of food waste as it is added to the worm farm so that they get exposed every time they need it. The problem with crushed eggshells is that they can be messy. If you’re not careful, it’s easy to add too much or put the wrong type of egg in your worm farm (like duck eggs). If you want to use crushed eggshells, it’s best to crush them into small pieces with a hammer or pestle. You can also use whole eggs if you are careful not to add too many of these at once. The Benefits of a Worm Farm A worm farm is a great way to recycle food waste and turn it into rich soil. Worms are natural recyclers, eating up to 1/3 of their body weight each day and processing it through their digestive system. They poop out the nutrient-rich leftovers, called castings, which can be used as fertilizer for plants. The worms will eat your food waste, including meat, dairy, and even fish. All of these foods are high in protein and minerals like calcium, magnesium, sodium, and chloride. The worms will also eat food scraps like bread, fruits, and vegetables. You can compost your food waste in a bin, but the process may take up to three months. Or you can use a worm farm to speed things up! Feed your worms once or twice a week with fresh fruit and vegetable scraps like potato peels or carrot tops. If you have meat scraps they will eat those too! Worms are great for the environment because they produce little to no waste and don’t require any electricity or filters. They also help reduce your carbon footprint by reducing food waste sent to landfills. Conclusion Now you’re ready to start your own worm farm! Vermiculture is a great way to recycle food waste and create your own compost for gardening. You can save money and improve your garden soil with this easy type of farming that has been used for thousands of years. The best part is that once you have everything set up, worm farms are fairly low maintenance. Courtney Garrett is a freelance writer and editor traveling the world as a digital nomad. She earned her Bachelor of Animal Science with a specialization in Livestock Science and Management in 2019 and has worked with dairy cattle, sheep, goats, dogs, chickens, and more over the past 10 years. When not writing, she enjoys horseback riding, swimming, and taking walks with her Havanese puppy, Ella.